Sunday, June 5, 2011

Tsavo

What better way to celebrate being done with a big chunk of work (the capacity assessment) than with a safari?  This weekend, I journeyed with a few new friends to Tsavo, home of the legendary man eating lions.  It’s my opinion that safaris are best described in pictures, not words, so I’ll let the photos do most of the talking.  However, it wouldn’t be me if I didn’t provide SOME commentary.

Tsavo is a HUGE park - much larger than the Mara.  This is only important because it means that the game has a LOT of room to spread out, which makes finding it difficult.  Tsavo was my first safari since going to the Mara back in December, and I quickly realized that the Mara is basically the king of all safaris.  You can hardly move without tripping over something incredible (like a pack of lions) in that park.  Tsavo was different - lots of scrub (which makes spotting things difficult) and just so much land area!  We joked that over the course of the weekend, we saw the “Little Many” rather than the “Big Five” - lots of giraffes, antelopes, gazelles, zebras, etc but none of the “exciting” things like elephants, lions and the like.  It was still incredible though - the dirt in Tsavo is a bright red color, which adds to the beauty of the place.  Also, the park is in the shadow of Mt. Kilimanjaro, which adds another special element.  Every morning we were treated to amazing views of the mountain (in the afternoons the peak is usually covered in clouds).  Pretty lucky to be sitting at your breakfast table, enjoying coffee with a full view of the tallest mountain in Africa.  Also, there’s something really special about seeing game with the mountain in the background - it just adds a whole different element to the experience.
In terms of lodging, we stayed in a tented camp - so much fun!  I have decided that this is my favorite form of camping - running water and nice beds in the tent makes Hilary a happy girl.  There was wildlife all around - the hotel was perched on the edge of a hippo and croc filled pond and of course, there were monkeys everywhere - can’t ever seem to get away from those little troublemakers. 
There were a couple of other unique things about this trip - we went on a walking safari, which got us very close to hippos, crocs, and zebras (all in the safe company of a guide, of course) and also taught us about several of the plants that grow in Tsavo.  We also went on a night safari, spotlighting nocturnal animals.  It was a very cool (and kind of spooky) experience - the animals all have glowing eyes - our driver could tell what type of animal it was just by seeing the reflection of eyes in the beam.  Last, but certainly not least, we got to climb on an ancient lava mountain - there are several volcanos that shaped Tsavo.  The lava mounds were HUGE and unlike anything I’ve ever seen before.
We headed home on Sunday, tired (it’s amazing how driving can wear you out), yet excited that we had seen another part of Kenya.




Our tent - this is my kind of camping!



Our walking safari - interesting to note that this is also the landing strip for the park!


Found a croc on the walking safari - good thing i was armed and ready!




Nighttime safari - hippos, birds, wildebeast, buffalos - very neat!  This hippo saw us coming and ran back into the water!  Managed to get a picture just in time!




Morning views of Kili - amazing.  I think I took about 50 pictures of the mountain over the course of the weekend





We went to a croc and hippo filled lookout point - there was even an underwater viewing tank with a sign highlighted some of the hilarious ways things are said about Africa - take care, cause crocodiles 'abound!'


Overlook where we had our picnic lunch


This is the lava mountain - a huge mound made entirely of cooled volcanic rock.  Pretty awesome.


And now for the stars of the show...the animals!





Giraffes with Kili in the background - pretty darn awesome


Day In The Life of a Kenyan Farmer

I got back to Kenya right after Easter and jumped right into “full speed ahead” mode.  Work wise, things are cranking up - I am leading a capacity assessment of the KMD (the met department) and it’s pretty much consuming my life (in a good way).  The purpose of the capacity assessment is for our team to get a better idea of the KMD’s capabilities, both in meteorology and IT.  The KMD Is going to be a crucial part of our project’s implementation, and so we need to understand their abilities before we start the project. While I was home, I was working on getting the scope defined, finding people to conduct the assessment, and in general laying the groundwork for the effort.  Now that I’m back in Kenya, it’s time for the actual assessment to start.  Basically, this just means a lot of meetings between Dr. Nyenzi (the expert who is conducting the assessment)/myself and the KMD team.  It’s a bit stressful - our client from the US is also here, which adds to the coordination effort.  Meetings, coordination - these are the types of things that are fairly easy in the States - you schedule a meeting, and you can be reasonably certain that everyone will show up.  Here, everything is a wild card - you might schedule a meeting, and folks might never show up, or there might be terrible traffic and you have to reschedule, or (as was the case this week) there can be a petrol shortage and no one can get anywhere - almost anything can and will happen.  I know it’s not the most difficult work, I’ve just self imposed a lot of stress - I need to make sure that everyone is in the right place at the right time and that we are getting the results we need within the time we need them - we only have two weeks to complete the work.  
As I mentioned previously, most of the assessment effort is conducting meetings with the various KMD departments to get an understanding of their current processes and working with them to identify gaps and weaknesses.  One of the areas we wanted to understand more was the KMD’s regional offices and how they interact with local farmers (farmers are, after all, the focus of our project).  To support this, I (with the help of others) organized a visit out to Machakos, which is a region just south of Nairobi.  The goal of the day was to meet with the KMD’s regional team in Machakos to understand how they work and what our project can do to improve the services that they provide.  We also met with farmers in the area (a local co-op of 25 farming families) to understand what types of weather information they receive today, and what additional information they need in the future.  Finally, we met with the local Ministry of Agriculture extension workers - these are individuals that are at the grassroots level, working with farmers and educating them about new ways to plant and increase their yields.
It was an incredible day, one that really opened my eyes to the situation that the rural people face in Africa - there is just such a need for help/improved ways of living.  At the same time, it was amazing to see what people are able to do with such limited resources.  For example, the KMD and the Ministry of Agriculture produce a seasonal advisory - this one page sheet contains information about the expected rainfall for the season, and pairs that information with agricultural advice - for example, the prediction is that it is going to rain less than normal, so farmers should plant X types of seeds and use X type of fertilizer.  Right now, the co-op that I mentioned receives 8 PRINTED copies of this document - and they have to use it to educate the 1000+ farmers that live in the area.  To get from place to place, they use 3 bicycles that were donated almost 10 years ago.  It’s a daunting task, yet they are doing it....and it’s working.  Farmers who hear the information in those bulletins are seeing an increase of 60% in their yields.  Incredible, yet true.  I learned so much on this visit, but the main themes were:
  1. Water dependency - Africa is so dependent on water.  We have to find ways to reduce this dependency, be it through irrigation, changing the types of crops that are grown, and develop other, innovative ways to reduce the need for consistent weather patterns
  2. Fancy technology is not always the answer to the problem - the more we meet with people, the more we realize that the majority of the farmers we want to reach use radio and face to face meetings with extension workers to get their information.  There are definitely opportunities to use mobile technology to push out information, but we cannot overlook the “simpler” channels, as they form a big part of rural life
  3. Support, education and training are going to be critical success factors for our project - there is a lack of knowledge about how weather works, the probability factor in weather forecasts, and how to translate weather information into actionable advice.  If we don’t get the education and training part of this right, everything else will be for naught
Vicky and I spent the ride home talking about all we had seen, and how we need to modify our plans and recommendations to account for the things we learned on the visit.  It was definitely one of the “game changing” days for our project.  Hopefully, when implementation of the project starts, we’ll get the chance to work with the folks in Machakos again....the lessons they’ve taught our team today will definitely stick with us.



Here we are at the KMD's regional office and observation station.  This is the place where they take the weather observations and enter them into a computer system that transmits them back to headquarters.


One of the weather instruments - when I started this project, I knew next to nothing about weather, and now I know how to read one of these things!


Our first meeting with the farmers, the KMD staff, and the Ministry of Agriculture workers.  This is the 'conference room' at the KMD's offices.  It was here that we learned about the agro advisory bulletin and the fact that there are only 8 copies available to educate all the farmers in the area. 


After leaving the KMD, we traveled to a nearby farm to meet with a local farmer's group (similar to a co-op).  We spent time talking with the farmers, learning about the weather information they receive today and how they use it.  We also talked about how the distribution of weather information (and education about weather) could be improved.  At first, the group was very quiet (most folks did not feel comfortable speaking in English, and were shy of talking to outsiders), but after a little prodding and lot of translation, we all started having a good conversation



After speaking with the farmers, we were taken on a tour of the farm.  We got to see the ways that farmers are trying to adapt to the changing weather conditions that are plaguing Africa


Here I am with Simon Gathara (from KMD) and Mr. Muhunyu (from the Ministry of Agriculture).  These two guys were invaluable at helping me set up the day and it's activities.


This is the owner of the farm, showing us the rain gauge that he maintains.  The KMD has a network of "volunteer observers" (of which this farmer is one) who take rainfall measurements to help supplement the KMD's network of observation stations.  These measurements are written down daily and then mailed into the KMD on a monthly basis.  They are a very useful source of information, but a lack of education surrounds them - this farmer understands the value, but his neighbors often ask him why he has chosen to have a rain gauge on land that could otherwise be planted.  Just another example of the education factor of this project.


Hilary with the rain gauge


Our final stop of the day was to the Ministry of Agriculture's extension offices.  Here we learned about the government sponsored programs to help farmers.  This is a major channel for reaching the rural communities - but the network is stretched very thin.  In the past, there was one extension worker for every thousand farmers.  Right now, estimates are that one worker exists for every FOUR thousand famers.



Tradition and formality are still very important here, especially in meetings.  Since I was the one that organized the field visit, I was definitely looked at as the "leader" from our project team.  During the ministry of agriculture meeting, I was given the seat at the head of the table (an honor) and was given the title of meeting "chairman" - hilarious, especially considering I usually do everything I can do stay OUT of the limelight at these events.  Besides running the meeting, my chairman duties included signing the guest book!

Birthdays in Dallas

(subtitle:  I keep celebrating my birthday)


When I signed up for the second phase of this project, I told our sponsors that I was willing to stay, but that I wanted to spend my birthday at home - as everyone knows, I’m pretty “big” on birthdays, and it’s important to me to be around my family and friends.  Our sponsors agreed, and I booked 10 days at home around my birthday.  I flew out of Kenya on April 12th, which means I landed in Dallas on the 13th, the day before my birthday.  My actual birthday was pretty quiet - I was focusing on getting over my jet lag in preparation for the weekend - but it was really nice to wake up at home, surrounded by my family.  To make things even better, my aunt, uncle and cousin were all in town for my birthday weekend, which was just great - it was so nice to be able to spend time with them.
Then came the birthday celebration.  I had a joint celebration with Nina, a friend of mine who has a birthday right next to mine.  She and I have been friends since college, and we run with the same group of folks, so we often do a joint celebration.  This year, we planned a dinner with our smaller group of friends, then reserved a big section of a bar for a celebration with a larger group.  The dinner was incredible - we had the best table in the place, the one that is made of marble and has a chandelier overhead - fancy fancy!  Nina and I even splurged and got the chocolate cake for dessert - as you can see from the picture, it was pretty much as big as both of us put together!  Hanging out at the bar was great too - it was so much fun to see everyone - living in Kenya is amazing, but I do miss home and my friends - this birthday was a good excuse to see them all at one time!  One of the funnier parts of the evening came when my cousin Nick tried to talk to the DJ to get him to play a request for us - he was told in no uncertain terms that the DJ only took requests from ladies!  Needless to say, Nicks’s song didn’t get played - but we still had a great time.
The rest of my time at home was spent doing all the things I like best - sitting by the pool, playing football, sitting on patios, seeing my family and friends, and in general just enjoying being home.  I do miss Texas while I’m away - living so far has taught me not to take having my friends and family so close for granted!  
It was an incredible week and a half - but by the end, I was ready to get back to Kenya for the final stretch - just about 8 weeks left on our project, and so much to do!  I left home feeling energized and ready to finish out my time in Africa with style.




My cousin Nick, my sister Holly, my brother Hunter and I all spiffed up for the Nina/Hilary birthday celebration.  Loved spending the weekend with these three - can't think of anyone else I'd rather spend time with.



Playing football - another thing I miss about home.  I had an INCREDIBLE (for me, anyway) catch during this game - and afterwards I ran and jumped into the QB's arms - a catch that good deserves a hug!



Family birthday dinner at Tillman's - this was right before the "make 'em at your table" s'mores.  So tasty.






Here are the four of us again - one more night on the town before the weekend is over.  Sad to have to say goodbye, but the countdown to our annual Michigan trip is officially started!


Ashley and I out on the town - playing giant jenga at barcadia and totally schooling all the SMU kids


The infamous birthday cake - every year my mom makes me a layered carrot cake - my number one favorite.  She complains (and she's right, I know a non-layered cake would be so much easier) but hey, it's my birthday, and I want layers!!  It's become a bit of a joke in my family now, but as long as I get cake, I'm happy!


Spending some quality time with Bear, my favorite dog ever

Birthdays in Kenya

(Subtitle:  I was a 30 year old African pirate)


This year was a pretty big birthday for me, since I turned the big 3-0.  I was lucky enough to have a bi-continental birthday celebration.  Part 1 was in Kenya.  Vicky (who has proven herself to be the greatest party planner ever) was in charge - we decided to go away to Watamu for the weekend.  About 20 folks attended, both from our ADP group and our extended group of friends.  We flew out on Friday night, and the hijinks began straight away - one of our friends went to check in, and found out that he had booked his ticket for the wrong weekend!  He ended up having to purchase another ticket - and coach was sold out, so he had to buy business class!  Annoying, but we got a good laugh out of it - and he teased us about getting free drinks the entire flight!
We arrived pretty late in Watamu and went to the hotel.  We quickly unpacked and headed for dinner at the hotel restaurant.  After our seaside meal, we went into the hotel bar to start the evening - the bar has a big ship in the middle of it, and we immediately used it as a venue for a flip cup tournament.  We had all kinds of matches - Brits v. Americans, boys v. girls...you name it, we did it.  I was on a couple of winning teams, but my skill level definitely decreased as the number of rounds and Tuskers increased.  After we ran out of Tusker, we moved the party to Kalahari, the outdoor bar just down from our hotel.  More drinking, dancing, and merry making ensued.  There were wayyy too many funny moments to write them all, but a few stand out:
  1. As most folks know, I’ve been a little sensitive about turning thirty.   In fact, it’s fair to say I am VERY sensitive.  Vicky spied me walking up to the bar to get another drink, and whispered to one of the Kenyan men at the bar - she told him to call me “old lady”.  So he did - and I WHIPPED around, stuck my hand on my hip, and said “OLD LADY???  Who are you calling OLD LADY???  This is NOT the body of a thirty year old - I WORK OUT!  The man’s mouth just falls open, he is so flabbergasted!  Vicky literally falls over laughing.  Needless to say, “OLD LADY!!”  became one of the catch phrases for the evening.
  2. Last time we were in Watamu, we went to Kalaheri and were followed around by all kinds of men - one, who was particularly persistent, kept dancing all around, and when we refused to acknowledge started saying “Jambo...why are you ignoring me??”  Well, we tried to use it in reverse this time around - using it on random people to tease them.  It totally backfired when someone started saying to us “it’s because we don’t KNOW you!!”  We all wished we had thought of that line the first time around!
  3. At the end of the evening, Vicky, Emma and I left the bar together - as I typically do when I get a little tipsy, I start being very “honest” (which is a nice way to say rude).  Emma and Vicky were trying to get me back to my hotel room...Emma was doing her best to help, but I finally said to her “Look, you are nice and all, but I really only like Vicky.  Where is she?”  Totally cringeworthy.  But Emma is a good sport :)
Saturday we relaxed around the pool, nursing our hangovers.  Then came the highlight of the day - Vicky had organized a chartered boat!  We all dressed up in pirate costumes (again, Vicky’s brilliant idea) and set out on a cruise all along the lagoons of Watamu.  It was an amazing afternoon - everyone really got into the theme and wore hilarious costumes.  We also got to swim a bit - although it was a bit suspect, as the captain stopped the boat and announced that we could swim even though “the water is shallow, there are urchins, and jellyfish”.  Typical - but we jumped right in!  After the cruise, we all cleaned up and did dinner, plus more dancing, flip cup, and drinking - amazing times.
Sunday was pretty low key - we all sat by the pool, read, and basically tried to recover from two straight days of partying.  We did our fair share of pool time - the guys were doing splash contests with some of the other guests, and I had brought an American football, so we tossed that around a bit as well.    It was a great time, and the perfect way to end the weekend.  Sunday night it was back to the grind in Nairobi....but I had a short work week ahead of me!




All 20 of us, at the airport and ready to go!


The birthday boy and girl


The Easterbrook 19 arrives in Watamu


Gearing up for a flip cup tournament!





The winners of the boys v girls match!


Getting ready to go on the pirate cruise - and then Father Christmas showed up







Patrick the glamour pirate


Birthday boy and girl on the ship's mast




What's a pirate cruise without someone walking the plank?  And drinking after?









Saturday night festivities...started with dinner, proceeded to dancing....






OLD LADY????!!


And concluded with me driving us home in the tuk tuk


Sunday afternoon splash contest